The town of Urgup (Click for Lonely Planet guide to) has a number of boutiques where the owners charm you with invitations to sip tea (free) and listen to their original music. Then they bargain with you on the prices of their hand-made wares. We think we got a good deal on a wine carafe, goblets and tray for about $125 (175 T.L). These are of ancient Hittite design, which is popular in the creation of contemporary pottery and jewelry in Turkey today. The parts were pre-made from the red clay in the local river, and the design was painted on by the shop owner and his wife with pins. He's quite a renaissance man, regaling us with traditional Turkish music and stories.