My son Alex and I arrived in Turkey on September 22, following my wife Lucia who arrived on August 28. We've found it to be a great adventure, and fallen in love with the country and its people. Lucia loves her job teaching English at Meliksah University in Kayseri, and I am enjoying teaching English in Meliksah's Continuing Education Department and at a prestigious private K-8 school. You can follow our adventures on our Turkish Delight blog, which is far more active than "The Buie Knife."
I've posted "Funny Observations of Americans About Turkey," that reveal more about us than they do about the Turks. I have found them to be the "Most Hospitable People on Earth," despite some early encounters that made me feel like a space alien, albeit a welcomed one. I'm learning anew what it feels like to be an American, since there are so few Americans here in Kayseri. We stand out. I feel both proud of America's economic, political and cultural leadership in the world and ashamed of the trash that our pop culture generates and exports. I ask, "In Mass Culture, Why Does Junk Crowd Out Quality?"
Learning from Islam
Strange Weather
Curious Customs
Lucia's ImpressionsWonderous Cappadocia, Turkey's Grand Canyon
Istanbul
Alex's Formal Education Is Still Challenging
Learning from Islam
I've reflected on What Americans Can Learn from Turkish Muslims, and pointed out that despite American media images, many Turks follow a moderate, tolerant, embracing version of their religion promoted by the Gulen Movement, which seeks to build bridges of understanding with Christianity and Judaism. One of my Muslim colleagues at Akansu School has been especially helpful in explaining the Gulen Movement to me.
I've explored the religious history that shapes this region, and Western Civilization, and also the misperceptions of Americans about Muslims. I've posted "Similarities Between Islam and Christianity," and "Islamic Imperialism, Christian Imperialism, Neither or Both??" The comments of others illuminate "Why Are There So Few Christians in Turkey?" and "Jews Often Thrived in Muslim Societies, While They Were Discriminated Against in Christian Societies." I react to the shootings at Ft. Hood, and shine a light on the bigots and fear-mongers in America who are attempting to blame all Muslims for what one crazy man did.
Before I came to Turkey, like most Americans I had no Muslim friends. Lack of exposure feeds fear, ignorance, and stereotypes. I feel lucky to have new Muslim friends and to listen to their perspectives on what's going on in the world and in Turkey.
I'm learning a lot about Turkey's place in the world, and its extraordinary potential to become a diplomatic, political and economic powerhouse in the years to come, a model for other Muslim countries like Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, and Iraq. I link to New York Times articles about "the Rise and Rise of Turkey," and Turkey's move toward moderate, secular Islamist democracy.
I ask, "What Would You Do If You Could Not Practice Your Religion Communally?" and explain how I'm trying to cope with the unavailability of an English-speaking religious institution to me for the first time in my life, and forced to engage in "do-it-yourself religion," for better and for worse.
Strange Weather
I express curiosity about the strange weather here in Kayseri. Most of September and October it was unseasonably warm, dry (almost no rain), and consistently 80-degrees, leading me to ask "Did Global Warming Cancel Fall?" Then one day the temperature plunged and it snowed. Two days later, it was no-jacket weather again, back up to 70. A Kayseri native advises that in this city you can experience all four seasons -- summer, fall, winter, and spring -- in a single day.
Curious Customs
I report on a flaming Turkish haircut I received (using a lighter, thankfully not a blowtorch) to burn off my hair, and reflect on the way Turkish men interact with one another ("Men Hug, Kiss, Dance Together, and Call Each Other 'Handsome' "). Relations between men and women in Turkey and their differing roles are difficult for an American to understand. In general, men and women in Turkey are far more group-oriented than individual-oriented.
I explore how my U.S.-induced impressions of "conservative" Islamic culture (at least the Turkish version) were completely wrong. Kayseri is a very capitalistic and entrepreneurial city. It prides itself, for example, on becoming one of the world's largest producers of beef sausage -- in fact, competing to break the world's record for the world's longest sausage. Looking out the window on a bus ride from Istanbul to Kayseri, I made observations about the Turkish economy. On a shopping adventure, I discovered that Turkish prices are generally much cheaper than what we pay in America, except for electronics.
I was appalled to watch an American woman fritter away more than a thousand dollars on an expensive package weekend tour of Cappadocia when she could have taken advantage of Turkey's cheap prices. I note that booking early flights usually leads to cheaper flights, and that you can fly from Kayseri to Istanbul for $60.
I meditate on how international travel increases open-mindedness, flexibility, creativity, your ability to negotiate, and I cite research that backs up my hunches. I point out that Turkey is becoming a mecca for international students, and Meliksah University where we work seeks to be a national leader in this effort.
Lucia's Impressions Lucia posted a very funny anecdote about wearing red shorts her first day in a Muslim country, and offered her first impressions upon arrival. "Burger King Delivers. Teachers in the Highest Income Bracket."
Since then, she has posted on the "delightful Turkish service sector," and crazy Turkish drivers.
She asks why don't we Americans have social places like the Turks do to hang out and play games like the Ottoman Cafe.
She reported on her thrilling meeting with Turkey's president, Abdullah Gul.
We posted a slide show of photos of our first impressions of our new neighborhood in Kayseri.
Wonderous Cappadocia, Turkey's Grand Canyon
One of the great fringe benefits of living in Kayseri is that we are just an hour (by bus) away from Cappadocia. That's like living an hour away from the Grand Canyon. There's so much to explore there, and commune with nature.
"Hiking One of the Ancient World's Wonders: Goreme, in Cappadocia" includes a brief account of our first day visit, an eight-mile hike, and several slideshows of the remarkable things we saw.
We are so charmed by Goreme, that we think we have found our weekend retreat. Here are some great photos of Lucia, Alex and me and some of the sights around charming Goreme. We've been there three weekends so far.
Take a look at these extraordinary photos of Matthew and Alex hiking in Cappadocia; Lucia and me on the family hike, and a thrilling horse-drawn carriage wagon ride into Goreme.
Brothers Alex and Matthew hiking in Cappadocia (photo taken by my Blackberry Storm).
Istanbul
Lucia, Alex, and I offered our impressions of Istanbul. I detail our experience of the Turkish Air flight from Chicago, what we encountered at the airport, post a video of Istanbul at sunset, solicited interesting recommendations from friends and family on what to see in istanbul Click.
Lucia describes Istanbul as a "Hopping City, with Wild and Friendly Dogs and Cats. We stayed at Grand Hotel de Londres Near Istiklal Caddesi."
Alex offers a perspective on Istanbul from "A Kid's View: Basilican Cistern Reminded Me of Something Out of the Movies, Harry Potter or James Bond!I explained how Istanbul got its name and report on a bizarre experience with an aggressive vendor at Blue Mosque & Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. Our friend Bea Vanni on her blog posted some of her Favorite Spots in Istanbul. It's also interesting to watch Matt Lauer of Today Show in Istanbul, and an evocative powerpoint slideshow of Istanbul on Bea's blog. Download Istanbul-fotolar-cok guzel.
Alex's Formal Education Is Still Challenging
I've reported that our efforts to home-school Alex, 12, have had mixed results, and I solicited advice from readers. Thanks to Edcone.com for sending over several helpful commentators on home-schooling. The ever-hospitable Turks have invited Alex to attend one of the best private schools in Kayseri tuition-free. Lucia reports on Alex's first few days trying out the school, though he doesn't know the language. He says it's getting better every day. The busy principal of Akansu school is taking time out of his frenetic schedule to teach us Turkish. Not surprisingly, Alex is learning Turkish a lot faster than I am.
Alex attended public school in North Carolina for four weeks before we arrived. He has tested a year ahead of grade-level, and was home-schooled for a couple of weeks by me before starting the Turkish private school in mid-October. Schools across Turkey were closed first to celebrate Republic Day, and Alex's school is now closed for more than a week to try to stem the swine flu pandemic, so his school attendance this fall has been pretty haphazard. Hopefully, he is learning more from his experiences in the world than he would in school anyway. Now we embark on a 21-day tour of Southern Europe and Northern Africa, aboard Matthew's cruise ship, the Grand Princess. Now that should be educational for Alex, as well as fun and almost free. As Matthew's family, we don't pay for food or lodging aboard the cruise ship. More about all that on Matthew's blog, here.
